Openings

Eat this: Stoney Street, experimenting with staple dishes

The founder of popular breakfast spot 26 Grains is expanding with a new restaurant that caters from morning to night.

9 September 2019
bakerybreakfastpastaprovenanceseafoodrestaurant openingrestaurants
  • The Gist: All-day dining dishing up familiar favourites with a twist
  • The Chef:  Henrietta Inman
  • Location: 2-3 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AA
  • Food in 5 words: Pushing the boundaries of ingredients
  • See more: Instagram @stoneystreet26

How did we get here?

Oddly, it was an Economics degree that led Alex-Hely Hutchinson into the world of food. As part of the course, she spent a year in Copenhagen and found herself inspired by the quality of seasonal eating that pervades Danish culture and the city’s love of porridge in the colder months. She graduated in the summer of 2013 but decided to pursue a career in food, starting off with a series of 26 Grains pop ups with the first in Old Street tube station, where she sold porridge pots to commuters for a month.

In June 2015, Alex opened her first bricks and mortar site called 26 Grains in Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden, with a menu featuring sweet and savoury porridge, topped toasts and savoury plates such as yellow daal and warming salads.

This October, Hely-Hutchinson is making her next foray in food with a new restaurant called Stoney Street which is opening in Borough Market. Named after the street it will call its home, it will be open from breakfast through to dinner and will focus on simple seasonal dishes with produce- and provenance-led cooking style.

At the helm of the kitchen will be head chef Henrietta Inman, previously of Leyton’s neighbourhood restaurant Yardarm.

What’s different about it?

The unusual ingredients used in some well known dishes.

Like the French-inspired dish for breakfast – a slow roasted tomato galette with tomato and chilli jam, but which is made with fennel and coriander seed pastry or foraging favourite sorrel appears in its porridges

The breakfast menu also offers up milk crèpes with September plums, Neal’s Yard yoghurt, and toasted nuts, while a bakery counter will be stacked with seasonal tarts and pastries available to grab-and-go. Shelves above the kitchen counter will be laden with boxes of home baked granola, jars of locally-sourced honey, and loaves of bread for guests to take home.

There’s also experimentation with familiar ingredients like anchovies, with the fish combined with a hazelnut butter in one dish or it features in the Neapolitan dish anchovies arreganate, where they are rapidly cooked in a large pan with olive oil, lemon juice and oregano.

Lunches consists of selection of small plates such as warm chicory, pear and raclette salad with British raclette from neighbouring Kappacasein cheesemongers and mains like cioppino, a fish stew that originates from San Francisco, which is served with aioli and a hunk of sourdough.

Dinner options include the likes of pollock with fennel, orange, olives and braised lentils; pappardelle with a sauce of wild mushroom, sorrel, tarragon, and egg yolk following the success of the pasta dishes at 26 Grains in Neal’s Yard; and bavette with Swiss chard, Taleggio and slow roasted shallots.

For something sweet there will be a signature chocolate mousse or meringue with seasonal compote.

 “My team and I have had such an amazing journey since starting 26 Grains five years ago and have learnt so much along the way,” said Hely-Hutchinson. “Stoney Street will be a big sister to 26 Grains; slightly more refined, a longer menu, a coming of age.”

You’ve got to try...

The focaccia sandwich with anchovy hazelnut butter, wilted cavolo nero, Yorkshire pecorino, and land cress.

Sparkie also likes...

The seed porridge with apples, blackberries, lemon cream, butterfly sorrel, and puffed barley

Go if...

You want to shake up your usual staples.

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