Openings

Eat this: Flor

The little sister to Lyle’s is opening in June with inspiration from European dishes and ingredients.

29 April 2019
bakerydessertrestaurant openingseafood
  • The Gist: A bakery-restaurant inspired by the buvettes of Paris and the pintxos bars in San Sebastián
  • The Chefs: James Lowe and John Ogier
  • Location: 1 Bedale St London, SE1 9AL
  • Food in 5 words: European pastries to challenge customers
  • See more: florlondon.com/

How did we get here?

It’s the next big thing from the team behind Lyle’s, which won a Michelin star in 2016 and is currently 38 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

James Lowe and John Ogier are launching a little sister to Lyle’s called Flor, which will open in Borough Market in June with a love of good quality ingredients and baking at its heart. The space will consist of a wine bar, bakery and restaurant, and will offer all-day-dining with a focus on sourdough, Viennoiserie, and produce- and provenance-led cooking.

Split across two floors, Flor will be housed in a 19th-century building in the centre of Borough Market, which features floor-to-ceiling Crittall windows. Guests can take a seat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen, or climb the original black cast-iron spiral staircase upstairs, where the space features an aged brickwork wall and banquette seating.

It joins the likes of Jolene, another bakery and restaurant combo that opened in London last year. 

What’s different about it?

It’s taking a bunch of influences from around Europe and combining them into one concept, allowing Londoners to get the best of places like Paris, Vienna and (more broadly) Spain.

Illustrative of this diversity, the bakery counter will be stacked with croissants, brioche filled with sourdough caramel, birch syrup kouign-amann (literally ‘butter cake’), seasonal Danishes and raw cream buns, as well as sourdough loaves. Bakers will use British stone-ground wheat from Dorset, milled in-house at Lyle’s, where the mother for the sourdough was created five years ago.

Daytimes at Flor take their cue from the informality of European dining culture: guests can drop in for a working lunch or take a more relaxed approach with dishes such as raw scallop, preserved gooseberry and green tomato, or white asparagus, honey and walnuts.

Dinner continues the theme of simplicity, comprising plates of burrata, grilled bread and salted tomatoes; Cornish pollack brandade and pickled peppers; lamb ribs, yoghurt and black lime; Lyle's charcuterie; and whole Dover sole, capers and wild marjoram.

To finish, there’s a choice of individual chocolate sabayon (egg yolks, sugar and sweet wine) tarts, loganberry fool or simple desserts made with fruit that the team pick themselves from the farm Lyle's use in Sussex.

On Saturdays, Flor will be also open for brunch from 10am, with a menu featuring dishes such as coddled eggs with trout roe and za’atar; purple sprouting broccoli with cured egg and kipper butter; and eggy bread with maple and black pudding.

“Whereas at Lyle’s we focus on the best produce that Britain has to offer, with Flor we will be paying homage to the variety of European ingredients available in London, particularly with Borough Market on our doorstep,” said Lowe. “It will be a smaller, more laid-back space but with a big personality.”

You’ve got to try…

A dish that draws from both of Flor’s specialisms, bakery and small plates: mussel, Spenwood (hard sheep’s cheese) and vin jaune (yellow wine) flatbread.

Sparkie also likes…

A lunchtime staple with a difference, the cured Mangalitsa (Hungarian breed of pig) and Comté sandwich in fermented potato bread. This is definitely one of the fanciest ham and cheese sandwiches around.

Go if…

You want to forget about Brexit and feast on European goodies.

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